Monday, August 8, 2011

Beer Brewing

Years ago, Irene had asked me if I was interested in doing some home wine-making.  Very haughtily I replied "Certainly not!"  (C'mon, I used to make wine 1000's of gallons at a time from the grape, how could I reduce myself to making 2 or 3 gallons from a grape concentrate?).

***years pass***

I was driving around a bit randomly on Father's Day with Sebastien and we saw a "Beer and Wine Hobby Shop".  And I thought "hmmm... I'm not so snobby about beer-making as I am about wine-making."  (Who talks about the quality of the barley harvest that year?).  So I asked Sebastien if he wanted to buy Daddy a nice father's day gift and he said "Yes!"

So here are the details of my first trial run (following a recipe for "A Dark Beer" supplied with the kit):

1.  The kit brews 5 gallons a shot, so you need a lot of bottles.  And those bottles need to be clean:

2.  Next you've got to extract some body and color from some specially prepared malted barley ("Crystal malt") ("mashed" is the technical term for what has happened to the barley:  heating the germinated barley to convert some starch to sugar and soaking it to extract the good stuff)
In front of the pot you see a white bag that contains the malted barley
3.  Now, in goes the hops (flowers added to beer for taste and their preservative properties) and the syrupy malt extract (malted barley extract - malted barley is just germinated barley that has been dried).  Grains should be germinated a bit in order to be able to convert their starches into sugars. (need the right enzymes)
This goop is called the "wort"
4.  Add enough water to get up to 5 gallons total and then add some yeast ("pitching" the yeast).  Yeast is a type of fungus that eats sugar and makes carbon dioxide and alcohol
C6H12O6   ====>   2(CH3CH2OH)  +  2(CO2) . 
The mixture then foamed and had a lot of activity as the yeast reproduced and generations of those little guys lived the good life in that vat.  After 3 days I decided to separate the fermenting brew from the yeast sediment ("racking" the beer). 
siphoning from the primary fermentation bucket into a glass one


Note all the sediment left behind by all the fermentation activity.  Vegemite, anyone?



Outgassing of the carbon dioxide via the fermentation lock on the top of the primary fermentation bucket.


5. A few more days and the beer was done fermenting.  No more bubbles of CO2 visible and the density of the liquid was stable for 3 days.  The density of the wort is higher than water in the beginning (1.088 kg/liter in my case) and lower when finished fermenting (1.022 kg/liter for me).  One sugar molecule is heavier than two alcohol molecules so the mixture become less dense while fermenting.  The difference in density (0.066) gives me an approximate alcohol content of 3 percent for my final beer.
 7.Time to bottle.  Add a bit more sugar to the beer and then line up the clean bottles, the new caps and the capper:
Nice bald spot, Dad!
6.  Two more week for secondary fermentation in the bottle.  This will give the bottled beer some natural carbonation (just like how they do it with champagne!) and we have produced our first home-made beer:
The in-bottle fermentation leaves a little sediment in the bottle. Commercial brewers force carbonate their beer like soda pop to avoid this.

Special thanks to Isabelle for all her help!

3 comments:

  1. And it tastes delicious! Is there a discount (or maybe extra beer) for those who provide the empty, brown, long-necked, Samuel Adams bottles?

    ReplyDelete